Seems like a little overkill, but now that I have the wood cookstove up and running, I cannot wait to post and show everyone how it is working.

Here I am adding the two 45 angle pieces to get the stove pipe down to the right spot on the stove.

The big job was cutting the hole in the roof, and installing the stainless steel insulated Class A stove pipe down through the roof, through the attic, down into the ceiling adapter.  I also have an attic insulation shield above the ceiling that keeps the insulation from getting too close to the stove pipe.  The next part was installing the stove pipe from the ceiling down to the stove.

Here I am installing the sheet metal screws to tie all the parts together, to keep them from moving.

I purchased wood stove fiberglass woven gasket material that I fit between the stove and the bottom stove pipe piece, to seal it and to keep it from wiggling back and forth.  I also used some of the gasket material to seal gaps between the sections of stove pipe.

Lighting that first fire.  Most of the smoke went up the chimney.

As you may be aware, when a wood cookstove is restored, it gets painted and then it gets coated with stove blacking to make it look pretty.  That is all very nice, until you go to burn wood in it.  When all that stuff gets hot, real hot, it starts to smoke.  Then the house starts to get smoky, then the smoke detector goes off, and you run around opening the doors and windows, and waving a towel at the smoke detector.  That's how it goes the first time you fire up a wood cookstove.  Happens every time.  Well, this was no exception.  The kitchen got nice and warm at first from the stove, until it started to get smoky, and then we had to open the doors and windows to get the smoke out, and then it got real cool again.

Nice fire in the fire box.  I had to shut off the draft to keep the stove from getting too hot.

Well, as you may guess, you just can't have a nice hot stove and not cook something on it, now can you?  Of course not!

A nice fried egg.  Farm-fresh, just laid the day before.

Of course, you've got to cook that fried egg in a nice cast iron pan, and I had just the right pan to do it, too.  One that has already been properly seasoned over many years of use.  They say that cast iron is the original non-stick cookware.  And, it is true.  That egg slid around in that little frying pan just like it was a brand-new Teflon or "Super Copper" or whatever is the fad now.  I wouldn't want to put one of those pans on this stove, it would probably just melt into a puddle.  One thing I did learn from our last wood stove, is that once the fire is going, everything is hot.  Don't assume that those little silver spiral things will stay cool enough to handle.  Just assume that everything is hot, and you won't get burned any more than necessary.  I wouldn't go so far as to say you won't get burned, because once you start using a wood cookstove, you do get burned at some point.  It just goes with the territory.  But using hot pads and oven mitts every time you go to handle something on the stove goes a long way to minimize the burns.

Well, I do want to wait until I have some photos to share before making a new post.  So, now that I have some new photos, I feel that I have enough to make some new new posts.  First,  I have a new tractor.  Not a new, new tractor, but a new, old tractor.  It is a 1953 Farmall Super H.

Farmall Super H.  I have it parked in my tractor shed.

The reason I bought it is that my other tractor is a B Farmall.  It is a smaller tractor.  It puts out about 10-12 horsepower on a good day.  I have a front end loader on it that I use a lot to move stuff around on the farm.  It is very useful in that way.  The problem is that the front end loader uses the PTO to run the hydraulic pump, so if I need to run any equipment that needs the PTO shaft, I have to take the front end loader off.  That's a lot of work.  The other thing is, the B just doesn't have the horsepower to run a lot of the equipment that I use, like the mower and the hay baler.  So, getting the Super H allows me to leave the front end loader on the B all the time, and I can use the Super H to run the mower and the hay baler and it has more horsepower, about 25-30 horsepower, which is more than enough for what I need.  Fortunately, there's enough room in the tractor shed to park both of them.


This is my Kineo B in its new spot in our kitchen.

Now, on to the next topic, the wood cookstove.  We have the Kineo B installed in our remodeled kitchen.  As you can see, the stovepipe is not yet connected to anything, so we can't burn wood in it, yet.  The weather is getting colder, so we are getting a little anxious to get this all hooked up and ready to use.  Last weekend I was up on the housetop, clunk, clunk, clunk, so to speak, sawing a hole in the roof with my saws-all.  Yes, that made me very nervous.  There is something very wrong about taking a saw and deliberately sawing a hole in the roof of one's house.  Ordinarily, a person works very hard to make sure there aren't any holes in the roof, so to saw a hole on purpose is just very backwards.

Sawing a hole in the roof.  Something very wrong about this.

The next step is to install the roof flashing, and then lower the chimney pipe down into the ceiling adapter.  The problem we ran into was that the clamping band was too large to fit through the flashing, so we ended up having to put the pipe down first, and then put the flashing down over the pipe, and then slip it under the shingles.

Note the shiny double-wall chimney pipe.  We assembled a four-foot piece onto a three-foot piece, then lowered both down through the hole in the roof.

Once we had it all together, we were able to finish caulking all the seams with roofing tar and high-temp silicone.

All assembled.  The spark arresting screen had to be jerry-rigged, as it was too large for the weather cap, but we got it wired on with baling wire, the farmer's friend.

The ceiling adapter is in place.  I know, it is dusty with sheetrock dust, but it will clean up.

I still have one more piece of stove pipe to come in the mail, and we will be ready to put it all together.  I have two 45's that will bring the pipe back a few inches and then two 3-foot sections that will connect the stove pipe to the stove.  I have also ordered some special gasket material to seal the pipe to the stove at the bottom to keep it from leaking any smoke where the stove pipe connects to the stove.